Category: Tips | Reading time: 12 minutes
Introduction
Soy wax is the most popular choice among candle makers in Poland – and for good reason. It is natural, holds scent well, is easy to work with, and has a beautiful, creamy appearance. But "soy wax" is not a single product – it encompasses dozens of variants, each behaving differently.
In this article, we'll go through everything you need to know: from types of soy wax, through working temperatures, to common problems and how to avoid them. Whether you're pouring your first candle or your hundredth – you'll find something useful here.
1. What is soy wax?
Soy wax is made from soybean oil – a vegetable fat extracted from soybean seeds. The oil undergoes a process of hydrogenation, which converts the liquid oil into a solid wax. This is the same process that turns vegetable oil into margarine.
The end result is a white or creamy wax with a melting point typically between 45°C and 52°C – ideal for container candles.
Soy wax vs other waxes - a brief comparison
| Soy wax | Paraffin wax | Coconut wax | Rapeseed wax | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Origin | Vegetable (soy) | Petroleum | Vegetable (coconut) | Vegetable (rapeseed) |
| Melting point | 45-52°C | 46-68°C | 38-42°C | 42-48°C |
| Scent throw | Good (warm) | Very good | Very good | Good |
| Appearance | Creamy, matte | Smooth, glossy | Creamy, soft | Creamy |
| Burn time | Long | Medium | Medium-long | Long |
| Price | Medium | Low | High | Medium-high |
| CLP Classification | Unclassified | Depends on type | Unclassified | Unclassified |
Soy wax wins in terms of quality-to-price ratio and ease of use – which is why it's the #1 choice for beginners and small producers.
2. Types of soy wax
Not all soy wax is the same. Manufacturers offer different formulations optimized for specific applications:
Container wax
The most popular type. It has a lower melting point (45-50°C), is soft, and adheres to the container walls. Ideal for candles in jars, cups, ceramics. Examples: Golden Wax 464, EcoSoya CB-Advanced, Cargill NatureWax C-3.
Pillar wax
Harder, with a higher melting point (50-56°C). Once set, it is rigid enough for the candle to maintain its shape without a container. Examples: Golden Wax 416, EcoSoya PB.
Wax for wax melts / tarts
Optimized for maximum cold and hot scent throw. Often harder than container wax. Examples: Golden Wax 494, EcoSoya Melt.
Blends
Many wax manufacturers offer soy-coconut, soy-paraffin, or soy-rapeseed blends. These combine the advantages of different waxes – for example, a soy-coconut blend gives a better scent throw than pure soy wax while maintaining a natural character.
TopWosk Tip: Our Safety Data Sheets (SDS) and CLP classifications are prepared for soy wax (CAS 8016-70-4), which is unclassified as hazardous. If you are using a blend – check the SDS of the blend, as an additional ingredient may have its own classification.
3. How to choose soy wax - what to look for
Melting point
Lower temperature (45-48°C) = softer wax, better container adhesion, but poorer scent throw. Higher temperature (50-52°C) = harder wax, better throw, but may pull away from container walls (wet spots).
Maximum fragrance load
Wax manufacturers indicate how much fragrance oil can be safely added – usually 6-12%. Exceeding this limit causes the candle to "sweat" (oil seeps to the surface). Typical recommendations are 6-10%, which perfectly aligns with our three SDS concentrations.
Adhesion to container
Good container wax should adhere to glass/ceramic without detaching (wet spots). Some waxes are better than others – it's worth testing.
Appearance after cooling
Soy wax is known for sometimes having an uneven, "frosted" surface after cooling. This is natural – but customers may perceive it as a flaw. Some waxes have a better finish than others.
4. Working temperatures - key numbers
Temperatures are the most important element when working with soy wax. Here are approximate values for typical container wax:
| Stage | Temperature | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Melting wax | 70-80°C | In a double boiler or melter. Never above 90°C. |
| Adding fragrance oil | 60-65°C | After removing from heat, when the wax has cooled slightly. |
| Mixing | - | Minimum 2 minutes of slow stirring. |
| Pouring | 50-55°C | Container preheated to ~40°C (warm to the touch). |
| Cooling | Room temperature | Away from drafts, not in the refrigerator! 24-48h. |
| Curing | Room temperature | Minimum 7-14 days before selling/burning. |
Important: These are approximate values. Each wax has its optimal temperatures – check the technical data sheet from the wax manufacturer. A 5°C difference in pouring temperature can drastically change the appearance and behavior of the candle.
Why is curing important? A freshly poured candle smells weaker than one after 2 weeks. During curing, the fragrance oil bonds with the wax molecules – this process needs time. A candle cured for 14 days has a noticeably better scent throw than the same candle burned a day after pouring.
5. Step-by-step - pouring a soy candle
Step 1: Preparation
Weigh the wax (remember: melted wax takes up less volume than solid wax – you need about 20% more wax than the container's volume). Prepare the wick, container, fragrance oil, and thermometer.
Step 2: Melting
Place the wax in a double boiler or melter. Heat slowly to 70-80°C. Stir gently every few minutes. Do not leave unattended.
Step 3: Adding fragrance oil
Once the wax reaches 60-65°C (after removing from heat), add the measured fragrance oil. Stir slowly for at least 2 minutes – this ensures even distribution of the oil in the wax.
Step 4: Preparing the wick
Adhere the wick to the bottom of the container (with a wick sticker or a drop of hot wax). Center it – this is critical for even burning. Use a wick holder or two chopsticks.
Step 5: Pouring
Preheat the container (warm water, hairdryer, radiator – the container should be warm to the touch, ~40°C). Pour the wax at 50-55°C. Pour slowly, in a steady stream.
Step 6: Cooling
Leave the candle undisturbed for 24-48 hours. Do not move it, do not place it near a window. Even, slow cooling = better surface and fewer problems.
Step 7: Finishing
Trim the wick to 5-7mm above the wax surface. If there are any unevenness on the surface – you can use a heat gun to smooth it out.
Step 8: Curing
Store the candle for 7-14 days in a dark, dry place at room temperature. After this time, it is ready for sale or burning.
6. Common problems and how to solve them
Wet spots (detachment from glass)
The wax detaches from the container wall, creating "wet" spots visible from the outside. This is an aesthetic problem – it does not affect burning. Causes: too rapid cooling, too large a temperature difference between wax and container, too cold a room. Solution: preheat the container before pouring, cool slowly in a warm room, consider a soy-coconut blend.
Sinkholes (depressions around the wick)
After cooling, a depression forms around the wick. Cause: wax shrinks during cooling – the outside cools first, the inside (around the wick) last. Solution: after the first cooling, do a second pour (top-up) – heat the wax to 60-65°C and pour a thin layer, filling the depression.
Frosting (white coating)
A white, crystalline coating on the wax surface – looks like frost. This is a natural crystallization process of soy wax and cannot be completely avoided. It is even proof that the wax is natural. Solution: soy-coconut blend reduces frosting, higher pouring temperatures also help, but do not eliminate it completely.
Poor scent throw (cold/hot throw)
The candle does not smell strong enough – when cold (cold throw) or during burning (hot throw). Causes: too little fragrance oil, too high a temperature when adding the oil (above 70°C, the oil partially evaporates), too short curing time, incorrect wick (too thin = too small a wax pool). Solution: check the concentration (6-10%), add fragrance oil at 60-65°C, cure for min. 14 days, test thicker wicks.
Sooting / too high a flame
Cause: too thick a wick, too long a wick (not trimmed), too much fragrance oil, draft. Solution: choose a thinner wick, trim to 5mm before each burn, check fragrance oil concentration (do not exceed 10-12%).
Tunneling (candle burns in a tunnel)
The wax melts only around the wick, leaving unmelted wax at the walls. Cause: too thin a wick, too short a first burn. Solution: choose a thicker wick, the first burn must last until all the wax from wall to wall melts (approx. 1 hour per inch of container diameter).
7. Wick selection - basics
Wick selection is a topic for a separate article (and we will write one!), but here are the most important rules:
- Container diameter determines wick thickness – the wider the container, the thicker the wick
- Soy wax requires thicker wicks than paraffin – because it melts at a lower temperature and creates a deeper pool
- Fragrance oil affects burning – a candle with 10% oil burns differently than the same candle with 6%
- Test, test, test – there is no universal wick. Order a sample set (3-4 sizes) and test each one in your container with your wax and your oil
- Document your results – record: what wick, what wax, what oil, what concentration, how it burned. After 20-30 tests, you will have your "gold standard"
8. Wax storage
- Temperature: 15-25°C, away from heat sources
- Humidity: Dry place – moisture can cause adhesion problems
- Light: Protect from direct sunlight – UV yellows the wax
- Packaging: Keep in original packaging or airtight container – wax absorbs odors from the surroundings
- Shelf life: Soy wax does not "expire" in the classic sense, but fresh wax gives the best results (up to 12 months from purchase)
9. Frequently Asked Questions
"Is soy wax vegan?" - Yes. Soy wax is 100% plant-based – it contains no animal-derived ingredients. Beeswax is not vegan, paraffin is vegan but not plant-based (petroleum).
"Can I mix soy wax with paraffin?" - Yes, this is a common practice. A soy-paraffin blend (e.g., 80/20) gives a better scent throw and a smoother surface. But remember: if paraffin has its own CLP classification, it may change the classification of your candle. Check the SDS of the paraffin.
"How much fragrance oil should I add?" - Typical concentration is 6-10% by weight. 6% = subtle scent, good for smaller rooms. 8% = standard, noticeable scent. 10% = strong, living rooms, open spaces. Do not exceed the wax manufacturer's recommendations. And remember the classification threshold – for each fragrance oil at TopWosk, we provide what concentration requires what formalities.
"Is soy wax safe?" - Soy wax (CAS 8016-70-4) is unclassified as hazardous according to CLP. It has no pictograms, requires no special precautions. But remember: this applies to the wax itself – a scented candle (wax + fragrance oil) may have a classification due to the oil's ingredients.
"My first candle didn't turn out - what am I doing wrong?" - Probably nothing. Soy wax requires practice. Common beginner mistakes: too high pouring temperature, no container preheating, too short mixing with fragrance oil, no curing. Improve these four things and try again.
Summary
Soy wax is a great material, but it requires respect – each stage (melting, adding fragrance oil, pouring, cooling, curing) has its optimal temperatures and times. Key principles:
- Temperatures are fundamental – buy a kitchen thermometer, don't guess
- Cure for a minimum of 7-14 days – patience = better scent
- Test wicks – there are no shortcuts, each wax/oil/container combination requires testing
- Document everything – write down what you do so you can repeat successes (and avoid failures)
- Frosting and wet spots are normal – don't fight the nature of soy wax, educate customers
At TopWosk, we offer fragrance oils tested for compatibility with soy wax. For each oil, you receive a ready-made candle Safety Data Sheet in three concentrations (6%, 8%, 10%) – you don't have to worry about the chemistry, focus on the craft. Check out our fragrance oils →